Viani Bay, Vanua Levu, Fiji

	Just another Fijian anchorage

Viani Bay is undoubtedly my favorite spot in Fiji. A large and well-protected anchorage, world class diving, great fishing, beautiful scenery, nearby provisioning and very welcoming locals are just a few of the reasons.Viani Bay is situated about 50 miles to the east of the town of Savusavu, the port of entry for Vanua Levu. It is also just a 9-mile hop across the Somosomo strait to Fiji’s spectacular “Garden Island” of Taveuni. Taveuni’s high profile protects Viani Bay from the full force of the southeast trade winds, while the off-lying Rainbow Reef intercepts most of the large sea swell that finds its way to Fiji from the big winter storms down south.

We visited Viani Bay twice during our 2000 cruise of Fiji and I’ve just returned from my second week long visit again this year.

Shortly after you anchor in Viani Bay, Jack Fisher will greet you. He is Viani Bay’s self-appointed goodwill ambassador to cruisers and a wonderful example of Fijian hospitality. Jack has lived at Viani Bay most of his 49 years. His grandfather, a Scottish planter, came to Viani Bay in the last century and developed a coconut plantation. Over the years, much of the original plantation has been sold, but Jack and his extended family still live on the edge of the bay, and make their living by cutting copra, farming, fishing and catering to the yachties. Jack and his wife Sophie have a way of making everyone feel at home and are able to accommodate many of the cruiser’s needs.

There are no roads to Viani Bay. You can only get there on foot or by boat. There are no resorts with screaming kids, loud music, paragliding or personal watercraft. Just lots of beautiful peace and quiet, only occasionally broken by the sound of a local long boat or a jumping fish. Only a few families share the beautiful, mostly sand and palm tree lined shore. The surrounding hills aren’t scarred by development, and the locals keep their land very tidy. On a calm day, the water is so clear you can easily see the bottom of the bay more than sixty feet below the surface.

Some of the best SCUBA diving in the world can be had on the Rainbow Reef, about 20 minutes by dinghy from the anchorage. Jack Fisher is an excellent guide and for a very reasonable fee, will look after the dinghy(s) while we enjoy some exciting and spectacular drift dives along the reef. He’s also happy to accommodate snorkelers and spear fishers

On our visits we’ve had a chance to dive sites like the White Wall, Fish Factories #1 and #2, The Zoo, Viani Pass and Cabbage Patch. In more than 500 dives all over the world, I have never seen more varieties of fish on a single dive than at the Fish Factories and The Zoo. The White Wall is a spectacular dive starting with a swim through a 60 degree angled cave, which exits at about the 80-foot level along an underwater wall covered with beautiful white soft corals. The White Wall is frequently visited by big fish such as trevally, walu, tuna, wahoo, maori wrasse and reef sharks who are waiting for the Sea Gods to send a meal their way. Drift diving along the White Wall in 3-4 knots of current with arms outstretched is what I imagine an eagle might feel like when it is soaring along the rim of the Grand Canyon. It just doesn’t get much better than this with your wetsuit on!

Yachties are typically social animals, and Viani Bay is a great spot to enjoy one of our favorite pastimes. Jack Fisher has built an excellent barbeque pit on the beach on one lobe of the bay. He and Sophie love to host potluck barbeques whenever there is a group of yachties in the bay. They’ve done this at least once a week every time I have been around, with as many as 21 people attending on one occasion. Jack is superb on the barbeque, Sophie usually offers up some excellent Fijian dishes, and the yachties always bring in some of their interesting specialties to share with the group. Add a little beer, wine and music, and you have the makings of a perfect island evening, Viani Bay style.